Russia and Things I forgot to mention

We are currently in Irkust, East Russia. The train to Moscow will leave at 4pm today, and then we are on the train for another 4 days in total. I reckon by the time we get off in Moscow I will have SERIOUS cabin fever. We predict a few things: a pervert in the cabin, drunk Russians/Germans preventing any proper sleep and as a result either suicide or a "if you cant beat em join em" response. But 4 days is asking a lot....

We spent 3 days at Lake Baikal, which was quite simply wonderful. We stayed in a village called Listvyanka (I think) in which everybody lives in wooden houses with outside toilets and a Banya (Russian Suana where you also bathe) in the back yard. Our host mum was Galia who was probably one of the best cooks I have ever come across (although obviously NOTHING could beat Mitsuko), and everything she cooked practically came fresh from her garden, which is fertilised and nourished from the minerals of Lake Baikal. This is how most of the village lives. Lake Baikal is the biggest fresh water lake in the world: if the world was to run out of water today it would supply the WHOLE world with water for 40 years. (This is the classic quote.) Apparently submerging your whole body in it will add 25 years to your life, we were pleased with getting in up to our knees. (This is Siberia, after all. Like, WHO could submerge their whole body without taking 25 years off their life aswell???) And if you were to die in Lake Baikal, they would stop looking for your body after three days, because the little crustaceans would have feasted on your body to turn it simply to a bag of bones, and the bones themselves would have dissolved in the minerals of Lake Baikal after 2 years. Impressive is it not. We camped out by the shores of the lake one night and got feasted on by mosquitoes but saw some beautiful stars. It didn't feel like Russia, until we arrived in Irkust yesterday, arriving to grey, drizzly weather, dark dirty buildings, and rather fierce and grim looking people... Well I suppose I can't blame them. I'd probably look like that if I lived here.

Wakako and I saw one Japanese restaurant but not one single Japanese looking person in it. So we gave it a miss. I am craving rice and miso soup everyday, but am living on a diet of bread, cheese and jam. I have a strong sense now of crossing into Europe.

The time zones are all a bit strange here. From Japan we went back an hour to Beijing time. Then when we crossed further west into Mongolia, we stayed on Beijing time. Then from Mongolia into Russia, which basically meant travelling north, we moved back to Tokyo time. Irkust is therefore the same time as Japan, despite being miles away from it, and it doesn't get dark here until after 9.30, again despite it being September now! It's all a bit confusing. Hopefully time will start to make more sense the closer we get to Moscow.

A note on trains. (as the bulk of this trip is the Transiberian I suppose this is quite an important note.)

The Beijing - Ulanbataar train was simply luxurious. New, sparkly, little television screens for every bed (although it showed only crap this didn't detract from the luxury), smooth, air conditioned... It wasn't how I imagined this most famous of trains. Sadly, that only lasted until Ulanbataar. Getting back on the train after our Mongolian visit we then experienced what the Transiberian should really be like: hot sweaty cabins in an old old train, sharing with Russians and Mongolians, and big fat men who walked around without their shirts on, not so nice toilets and VERY 70's decor. The 2 day journey was passed however in a Poker and Rummy stupor so it wasn't too bad. It is this 4 day journey that I wait with rather bated breath, wondering who the hell Wakako and I are going to end up in a cabin with....

Mongolia: I forgot to mention that the day we arrived in Mongolia they won their second Gold medal in history. They had won the first one the previous day. ( I think for the catergories of wrestling and boxing, naturally.) The streets of Mongolia were ALIVE. I have never seen so much patriotic glee and happiness displayed by a city, cars were honking, there was clearly a lot of drink driving, people standing on roof tops waving flags, kids hanging out of cars, and all kinds of general frivolity. What a country.

Although I am uncertain about where Russia stops being Asia and starts being Europe, I can definitely feel a change in the atmosphere, and I am already missing Asia fiercely. Perhaps this is just the effect of Russia, and Poland might help to brighten things up. Obviously I do consider myself a modern woman, but I can definitely say I am disappointed by the lack of chivalry shown by the big masculine Russians, not once helping I or particularly Wakako with a bag: slim, petite and rather slight Wakako is there struggling to put a big bag on her back, and the Russian driver ''looking after us'' just stands next to her smoking a cigarette and looking extremely bored. The Mongolians, despite being a little aggressive and direct, were still quick to jump right in there to Wakako's aid and give her a helping hand. Clearly I have left Japan now and am having a reality check.

So, next stop Moscow, and then we catch the sleeper train to Poland, when I will be well and truly back on European ground.